Torsion CB Tutorial

By Rich & John

 

 

The Torsion CB is Laozu’s invention, many thanks dude. And of course to

Don Croft for the original Cloudbuster design, this is in no way supposed to

replace the original design. It is just an alternative if you will.

 

Laozu observed that negative Orgone (DOR) would be pulled down into the

Cloudbuster in a counter-clockwise motion. This is the reason the pipes set in

 this direction. The positive energy then runs back out from around the point

 where the pipes twist, funnelling out in the opposite direction in a clockwise

spiral, the centre pipe just aids the direction some.

 

 

Ingredients;

 

6 Good sized crystals for the pipes, preferred Double Terminated and as long

as you can find or afford (remember they must fit 26mm inside pipe width).

1 Long Fat Crystal for the centre of the main matrix (5”+ Lemurian or the like

if at all possible).

 

Copper pipes cut into the following;

7x 1.5M Lengths of 28mm Copper Pipe (or 5ft old money)

6x 30cm Lengths of 28 mm Copper Pipe (or 1ft)

(You will need 5x 3M Lengths, this will leave almost one full length over if

you are buying in 3m/10ft lengths, for your next CB! Or, if money is an issue,

make the 6x 30cm shorter at 25cm instead, this will then be exactly 4x 3M

lengths, likewise 22mm can be used effectively to make things cheaper)

 

6x 28mm End caps, or some parcel tape to seal the ends, we prefer caps.

6x 28mm Pipe couplers.

 

1.5 Gallons of Resin & Catalyst (out of date stock equally good).

Enough metal shavings to fill your bucket to the 2Gallon mark. Copper,

Brass, Aluminium all work fine, we use Aluminium. One three gallon bucket,

 Set of Compasses, Wood for the templates (at least 2.5x the length of your

buckets diameter) Drill with a 28mm bit, Jigsaw, Insulation Tape, Distilled

Water (if you have a CB already to charge your crystals upon), containers for

mixing the resin in – to charge the crystals in and mixing rods, last but not

least an organic particulate level respirator.

 

Ok got your bits ready, lets go to work .

~

  Stage one – Pipe ends and centre plug pouring.

 

The night before you make your CB, place the crystals into a container and

cover them in distilled water, with all those planes flying around polluting

the skies it is also a good idea to cover over the top of the container.

 

Take the container off and place it along with your other items for this stage.

 

Below you can see we have placed the short pipe lengths with end caps on

into a bucket with an old plastic bag inside to hold the pipes in place (don't be confused by

the fact there are 18 pipe ends in the picture, we were making 3CBs! You should have 6) .

Also you can see we have cut a 2litre bottle to use as the centre plug with the large

crystal. At this point we place some shavings into the bottom of the pipes and

the centre plug container.

Next we mix up the resin.

 

It is only at the stage when the resin is ready that we place the crystals into

the pipes and the centre plug, so the resin can be poured straight onto the

crystals to minimise the dissipation of the charge.

 

Next we put some more shavings in, enough to just cover the crystal, then

pour resin over the top enough to just cover the crystal and shavings.

 

Once this stage is complete you will have at least 2hours whilst these parts

cure. This time can be well spent making the spacer templates.

 

Stage Two – Templates

 

Take your compass and set it to a width that will be a few millimetres

narrower than the diameter of the bucket.

Now mark a circle onto your wood as shown below. Then either use your

drill bit or measure in half the width (14mm for 28mm pipes, 11mm for 22mm

etc), and draw a second circle this size.

Now simply keep the compass the same size and place the pin end anywhere

on the inner circle, draw a curve which runs just through two edges of the

inner circle.

Next move the pin end onto the point where the inner curve was just drawn.

Continue to move the pin onto the next curve drawn and again draw these

markings all the way around. This will complete your bucket template.

 

Keep the compass set at the inner size and draw the same flower pattern

again for the top template, then once complete set the width another 2”+ wide

and draw an outer circle. The finished template markings should look as

below (Left is the bucket template, right is the top template).

Next, drill out the six points where the ‘petals’ meet the inner circle lines, this

is the centre point for the drill, also the centre point of the template. The pipes

need space to be twisted, so once drilled through, an up/down and left/right

motion with the drill a few times will widen the hole enough for the capped

end to fit in. Checking they fit with enough space to angle is highly advisable

(32mm bottom and 30mm top).

 

The templates are then cut out around the outer circles, and the bottom

template we cut out most of the centre to use as little wood as possible

(leaving as much room for metal/resin). The bottom template you can see

below has a couple of edges cut out, this is not by design, but doesn’t matter

 greatly, as long as there is enough circle left to hold the pipe securely (greater

care is taken with the upper spacer, in terms of visual neatness, as this will be

showing once complete).

Next the bottom template is placed into the bucket, with the centre plug

(removed from the plastic bottle! The crystal doesn’t need to be stuck out, this

one below is simply because it has an excellent large Cesco Coil beneath it J)

 

 

Stage 3 – Main Pour

Once the templates are ready, and, the pipes and plug have set sufficiently,

we are ready for the main pour.

 

Now we put the couplers on the pipe ends, then the extensions, so we have 6x

180cm lengths of pipe ready. Place the ends into the bottom template, and if

possible rest the pipes against a table or have them held so you have more

space in the bucket to pour your mix into without getting the pipes or bucket

 covered in resin and shavings. A good idea here, is to put the top template on

also and check that you have drilled the holes large enough for the pipes to

twist. We have then removed the top template for the main pour, to make it

easier to get the matrix material poured in and spread around.

 

 

 

Below you can see the two pipes nearest the area we pour into are held

slightly apart, and it is poured in using a 2litre measuring jug, we create about

1.5Gallons of matrix material, then pour from the bucket into the measuring

jug, mainly for neatness, but also so that the material can be pushed around

(under the bottom template and evenly around the other pipes) with a mixing

 rod, then the measuring jug refilled and poured in again, and again, and

again!

Once poured to the level required, it is then time to place the top spacer onto

the pipes, and adjust it to the height required (the lower the template the

wider the angle of the pipes will be, but be careful not to go too low as Loazu

has had to destroy one of his before by making the pipes too wide).

 

Once the pipes are twisted, we place some insulation tape around the apex of

the twist, and above the top spacer to ensure the pipes stay it place. Then we

place some Rose Quartz between each of the pipes (this is not necessary to the

functional working of a CB, but we believe it helps flavour the energy and

makes it a little smoother).

 

Finally, when happy that the pipes are in place etc, then rest the CB to cure

 by the side of a worktop if possible -- secure it as best you can with some

 tape or cabling so it will not fall over or move out of shape. 

 

12hours or so later;

 

With the above CB the top template fit on flush:  this meant it held with pipes

in place, without the need for tape. However, if the template is sliding down,

then some insulation tape around the pipe directly below the spacer will hold

it well, or gator clips. The centre should go just far enough down to be slightly

into the area where the pipes all cross one another, again if the pipe slides

further some insulation tape on the side above the spacer will hold it in place.

 

  

Wishing You Well

Rich & John